Interview with Pissara UMAVIJANI (Parfums Dusita)

I was lucky enough to have an interview with Ms Pissara UMAVIJANI, the founder and the perfumer of Parfums DUSITA.

Q. Please give me your background. 

A. I was born and raised in Bangkok, Thailand. My parents were Montri Umavijani, a literature professor and poet, and Chutatip Umavijani, a philosophy professor. Our house had a beautiful garden with exotic flowers and fruit trees, and I soon became fascinated with nature’s smells, colors and textures. I’ve been passionate about art ever since I can remember myself, starting with music and continuing with painting. Thanks to the fragrances my dad was bringing from France, I fell in love with French perfumery from an early age. Those fragrances, combined with my dad’s stories and poems about his voyages, made me dream of travelling to France.

After acquiring my degree in communications & social psychology in Bangkok, I left for France. By 2011, I was a student in Paris. I used to spend my free time blending fragrances and exploring this exciting city I was now living in. During one of my walks around the iconic Place Vendôme, I wished to have my own Perfume House in that area one day. Less than a decade later, my dream came true. I founded Parfums Dusita in 2016 and, 2 years later, my Perfume House found its Parisian home at 11 rue de la Sourdière, 75001 — a stone’s throw from rue Saint-Honoré and the Louvre Museum. 

Q. Why are you interested in perfumes and making perfumes? I am impressed with the story behind Rosarine. 

A. I regard perfume making as a wearable form of art. Through it, I am able to communicate with people, while offering them joy they can experience through their sense of smell. Viewing fragrance as not only a beautiful product, but also under the prism of artistic expression, shaped my fundamental goal: to create memorable perfumes with a deep emotional impact. “Dusita” means “paradise” in Thai, and all my perfumes aim to evoke realms of earthly happiness. Furthermore, all Dusita fragrances are olfactory homages to the poetry of my late father. 

As for Rosarine, I am very happy to hear that the story behind the fragrance touched you! Apart from being my personal tribute to the glorious beauty of the rose, this fragrance also reflects the journey of following my dreams. It was in the rose gardens of the Parc de Bagatelle in Paris where I promised myself to pursue my heart’s desire, become a perfumer. For me, the roses are forever linked with that magical moment of self-awareness and determination. 

Q. What is your number 1 fragrance in your collection and why is it number 1?

A. If you are referring to my own creations, I couldn’t really single any of them out. Each one is a part of me, reflecting a piece of my soul, my mind, my artistic vision. They were all born after endless hours of thought and hard work.

If you mean which Dusita fragrance is our bestseller, that varies depending on the year and the world region. Our global bestseller for the year 2023 was Moonlight in Chiangmai, a blend of refreshing yuzu, night-blooming jasmine and rainforest notes. I think that it is an instantly appealing fragrance that managed to capture the imagination of a vast number of people. As for Japan, our 2023 bestseller was Erawan, whose serene, natural aura and unique combination of green, herbal, earthy and gourmand notes has touched the souls and senses of the Japanese fragrance lovers.

Q. Do you have any specific favorite notes?

A. I do have some favorite ingredients which I tend to use often in my creations, such as May rose from Grasse, Indian jasmine sambac, Calabrian bergamot, Indonesian patchouli, Haitian vetiver, French orris butter, Madagascan vanilla —  to name a few. I generally favor top-quality natural ingredients for their unique, complex beauty. That said, more and more lately I consciously challenge myself by working with materials that I haven’t been using so much in the past. It’s very important for me to try things outside my comfort zone, while retaining my personal signature. I find this essential for boosting inspiration and creativity. I strongly believe in experimenting and evolving, especially when it comes to artistic expression and creation of any kind. 

Q. Some of your fragrances are related to Thailand and your family. How do Thailand and your family affect your perfumes? 

A. Bangkok is my birthplace, I spent many happy years of my life there. Thailand will remain with me forever, no matter where in the world I may reside. Next to my family and friends, I love my home country’s spectacular natural treasures, as well as its rich history and culture. I have indeed composed several fragrances directly inspired by Thailand. First came my gentle fougère Issara, an ode to the freedom one feels when walking into a forest. La Douceur de Siam is a tropical floral symphony that reflects a magical afternoon in a Thai garden. Erawan, named after the elephant god of Thai Hindu mythology and the eponymous natural park, is a unique fougère with gourmand undertones that feels like a relaxing pause after a day spent in nature. Le Pavillon d’Or, a tranquil blend of green, herbal, floral and earthy notes, was inspired by the lakeside ambiance around the Bang Pa-In Palace. Moonlight in Chiangmai evokes the atmosphere of a spellbinding summer night in the titular Thai city, with a blend of soft spices, floral notes and my own teakwood accord. Finally, Montri is a tribute to my late father; it is a suave, soulful combination of spices, woods, rose, orris, leather, tobacco and precious oud — a perfume that I believe my father would have enjoyed. Let it be noted that, no matter what the inspiration behind each perfume is, all Dusita fragrances are meant to elicit universal happiness. 

Q. What is your daily routine work? Do you have a next project?

A. My work routine varies, depending on how close we are to releasing a new fragrance. Our brand new Extrait de Parfum, Pelagos, which reflects my memories of an unforgettable summer vacation in the Greek islands, is now available, so I’m still quite busy presenting it to the world. Meanwhile, I’m already thinking about what the next Dusita perfume will be. I always work on several ideas and variations at the same time, because alternating between projects daily is most important for a perfumer’s nose. I naturally spend many hours in my lab each week, but I’m also closely involved with every aspect of running Parfums Dusita: I coordinate and lead my team, I initiate creative exchanges, I approve our communications strategy, I am present in most business meetings, and I make personal appearances in trade shows and boutiques that carry our products. Last but not least, I’m always available to the press and content creators. Sometimes, 24 hours a day seem hardly enough! 

Q. Does the fact that you became a mother recently change anything in the way you make perfumes or in your working style?

A. Naturally, having a baby significantly changes one’s life and schedule. Although I continue working on a daily basis, I often do so from home, while taking care of my daughter. Thanks to modern technology, I can attend meetings and communicate with my team whenever it is needed. As for perfume making itself, my lab is located in the building where I live, so I can continue composing without having to move far from home. 

Regarding my style, the birth of my daughter may indeed affect my creations directly (perhaps a future fragrance dedicated to her) or indirectly (the life-changing experience of raising a child may well influence my artistic sensibilities over time). But such changes will probably be noticed more by others, than by me — I certainly look forward to any future feedback regarding your very interesting question! 

Q. How do you feel about having your own brand and your brand becoming popular all over the world?

A. I feel utterly delighted and grateful for all the awards, the appreciation, the love. With thousands of new fragrances and dozens of new brands emerging every year, you can understand how hard it is to simply let people know that your creations are out there — not to mention, attract the interest of journalists, experts and perfume lovers. It is even more difficult to sustain that initial interest and turn it into something deeper. Keeping a fragrance brand alive and thriving requires much more than producing beautiful perfumes. A genuine, undiminished wish to offer memorable, top-quality fragrances is, of course, essential. But it also takes everyday work on all business levels, including communication and customer service. Furthermore, progressing as a brand requires being surrounded by efficient, like-minded people. That is why, as soon as it became possible, I started building a team of diverse, creative individuals. My Dusita team members deserve lots of praise for their stellar work and dedication!

Q. In the world of perfumery or niche fragrance, do you notice some changes compared to before?

A. There have been many notable changes in the last decades. After the boom of niche perfumery, there has been a staggering, ever-growing number of new releases every year. That fact alone makes it really hard for most brands to reach the consumers — and for perfume lovers to keep track of what’s new. To stay afloat in such an overwhelming wave of offerings, any young brand (especially an independent one, like Parfums Dusita) has got to have a strong identity, unique creations and exemplary customer service. 

There have also been many positive changes during the last 30-40 years, like the impressive increase of the number of female perfumers, creative directors and brand owners (let’s not forget that, until a few decades ago, the perfumery world was male-dominated). There has also been a gradual democratization of perfumery. In the not-so-distant past, being a perfumer was very often a profession passed down from father to son and the opportunities of a total outsider entering the field were much slimmer than they are today. I’m particularly happy to see so many talented independent perfumers around, some of them practically self-taught. Being a self-taught perfumer myself, as well as a former industry outsider, I can attest that passion, dedication and persistence can make one’s dreams come true!  

Thank you team Dusita for your time and this amazing opportunity.

Kanako

香水オタク

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ニッチフレグランスの沼にハマり、約3年。香水愛好家。香水ボトルのコレクションは300以上、サンプル所有数は1000を軽く超える。朝香水をつけないとやる気にならない怠け者。でも香水の展示会には海外にも行ってしまう行動的な部分もある。タイ・バンコク在住🇹🇭